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Q & A

WHY DEEP ROOT FEED YOUR TREES?

Deep root feeding is especially import in urban areas where soil nutrients are extremely low.  Often a tree may look fine and show no signs of illness and actually be weak and sickening. 


  1. Deep root feeding supplies critical nutrients right where they are needed. With our high-pressure injection method we pump high levels of nutrients into the root zone. 


  1. The fertilizer is delivered at much higher pressure than home applicators, which allows us to reach a much larger area throughout the root zone.


  1. Our fertilizer is delivered at a much more concentrated level than is typically available to the public, and the nitrogen that we use is two-thirds slow release and one-third nitrogen that can be immediately absorbed by the tree (feeding the tree for up to 6 weeks after the application).



It is important to do multiple deep root feedings because the nutrients typically have been completely exhausted after 6-8 weeks.  We recommend three deep root feedings in the spring, summer and fall.  Deep root feeding effects the development of the tree in very different ways at each of these times.


In the spring deep root feeding helps to increase leaf and tip growth, which boosts the overall health of the tree(s). 


In summer deep root feeding effects the wood production in the trunk and branches. 


  1. In fall deep root feeding will increase root growth and development. 



The largest long-term investment in your landscape is your trees, so we encourage you to keep them flourishing with proper nutrients and care.


Insecticide treatments:  our foliar insecticide treatments include a foliar fertilizer, and are specifically designed to control the particular pest(s) at each property.  Our pesticides are able to control a whole host of biological pests, which include: pine beetle (preventative), aphids, borers (pine, ash, plum, etc.), chewing insects, spider mites, and many others.  All of our insecticide treatments come with our unconditional guarantee.  All applications are guaranteed for 30 days after application, if the presence of any aphids, spider mites or leaf chewing insects return call us immediately.


FOUR OF THE MOST COMMON INSECTS THAT ATTACK TREES IN COLORADO:










Holes in trunk caused      ASH BORER   COMMON APHID     SPRUCE GALL  APHIDS ALONG

   by Ash borers          PINE NEEDLES




ASH BORERS: The ash borer is a clearwing borer and is a day flying moth.  The ash borer is a very serious pest, which if the tree is infested by just a few can lead to tree death or the top of the tree dying out. 


Often young ash trees are the most susceptible to damage. 

SYMPTOMS- small holes will appear on the trunk.  As development of symptoms can take several years.

DAMAGE- First top of tree will die followed by death of the entire tree in following years.

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT- If you have an ash from 1-10 years old we recommend treating the bark with a foliar permethriin spray in early spring and early summer to prevent infestation for optimum protection. Once an ash trees bark becomes thick enough spraying no longer is necessary.


APHIDS: aphids in Colorado not only attack roses they also attack several other hosts, which include: aspens, ash trees, peach plum, snowball viburnum, apple trees, elm and many others.


SYMPTOMS- Large colonies of green aphids will appear on leaves branches or stems.  Appearance of a sticky substance (often glistening in light) called honeydew on leaves is a by-product of the aphids feeding process.  Another common symptom is leaf curl.  On aspens the leaves will often turn black on the edges from the end of July to frost.

DAMAGE- if in large enough colonies can weaken a tree.

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT- if colonies are not being control by biological agents such as lacewings, predatory wasps, and ladybugs trees and shrubs can be sprayed and will result in an immediate death of pests.



SPRUCE GALL:  Commonly seen on Colorado spruce trees, and are caused by wooly aphids. 


SYMPTOMS- the tips of the branches turn brown and often are mistaken for pinecones.

DAMAGE- if in large enough quantities can mildly retard and distort the growth of the tree.

  1. RECOMMENDED TREATMENT- to prevent aesthetic damage to the tree a foliar insecticide can be sprayed in early spring or in fall to infected spruce.



WHY DOES MY MAPLE HAVE LARGE SECTIONS OF YELLOWING LEAVES?


The most common cause of yellowing leaves on maples (especially silver maples) is iron chlorosis.  Iron chlorosis occurs when there is a lack of iron available for uptake by the tree, often this occurs in clayey soil.  You can deep root feed or spray the tree with a foliar treatment of iron to offset the affects.


WHY DO I HAVE TRAILS RUNNING THROUGH MY YARD?









































THE MOST COMMON CAUSE ARE VOLS.  VOLS ARE A SMALL RODENT THAT TYPICALLY FEED ON THE ROOTS AND TRAILS ARE OFTEN SEEN IN SPRING AS THE RESULT OF THE RODENTS ACTIVITY OVER THE WINTER.

VOL

TRAILS THROUGH THE YARD CAUSED BY VOLS

Lawn Q & A


I HAVE BROWN CIRCLES IN MY YARD?


The most common reasons for having brown rings in your yard in Colorado is necrotic ring disease (NRD).  NRD is a type of fungus that attacks the living root tissue of some types of grass.  It appears as dead rings in the lawn, which can be single or multiple rings ranging from one to two feet in diameter.  One of the most prevalent types of grass affected by NRD is Kentucky blue grass, which is the most common type of grass used in Colorado for residential and commercial lawns.  It is important to have a trained professional diagnose lawn diseases before deciding upon an effective treatment or prevention program.  There are fungicides that are able to treat this fungus, however, because the fungus is in the soil it is very difficult to completely eliminate.  We typically suggest a regular treatment program to be done in spring or early fall, which should be followed by over-seeding of areas affected with Necrotic ring disease with types of grass that are resistant to NRD.



I HAVE SMALL BROWN SPOTS APPEARING IN MY LAWN?


One of the most common types of fungus that appears as small solid circle patches ranging in size from and inch to multiple cluster that can cover several square feet is dollar spot.  Dollar spot is a fungus that attacks the leaf tissue of the grass blade.  It can be diagnosed by inspecting an individual blade of grass.  If the leaf is retarded towards the tip with an hourglass shape it is most likely dollar spot.  Make sure to consult a professional before deciding on any treatment programs, because often there are other reasons contributing to the funguses development. We do have fungicides to treat Dollar spot, however these should be used as a last resort.  Make sure you are following proper watering practices, cutting the lawn at a length no shorter than 2 ½”, make sure the blade is sharp and that you are not over fertilizing.  We highly recommend using slow release nitrogen especially on lawns with a history of fungus problems.  We also recommend aerating the lawn at least once a year to reduce soil compaction and promote healthy root growth.



HOW DO I GET RID OF LARGE AMOUNTS OF WEEDS IN MY LAWN?


When there is a large weed infestation problem in your lawn it is best to call a professional.  We offer both pre-emergent (before the weed forms and is still a seed) and post-emergent (for the weeds that you can see).  The reason it is most effective to call a professional when weeds are everywhere is that we have specialized equipment to blanket spray the entire lawn.  Often in severely neglected lawns blanket sprays may be necessary multiple times within a season to get the weeds under control.  This is due to the natural life cycle of plants and many weed seeds are generally present and are not affected by post-emergent applications.  Blanket spray applications are only recommended for severe cases, for all other cases spot spraying  the individual weeds is recommended.  If you want to do it yourself we recommend using a 1-2 gallon pump sprayer that can be purchased at any hardware store.  Mix herbicides to the specified dilution rate and apply on calm days when winds are low or non-existent.  Make sure as well that rain is not forecasted for at least 24 hours, because most herbicides are only effective with a 24-hour drying time.  It is also important to not apply on severely hot days over 90 degrees Fahrenheit.



I HAVE A SHADY AREA THAT I CAN’T GROW GRASS IN?


Grass typically does best in light shade to full sun areas.  Fro areas of dense shade we recommend the following:

•Make sure to heavily aerate areas of dense shade in spring and fall.

•Seed areas with shade tolerant grass seed mixtures.

•Do not cut lawn shorter than 3”.

•Make sure not to over water area and that area is not flooding.

Often trees are competing for available water in densely shaded areas.  If you are following all the above steps and your grass is still drying out or weak, it may be desirable to replace turf with mulch, rock or to plant low growing shade tolerant perennials in the area instead.



I AM NOTICING DAMAGE IN MY LAWN IS IT INSECTS?


Many times people will notice brown spots in their lawns and automatically assume that they have insect damage.  However, there are several reasons that brown spots can appear in a lawn.  Reasons range from fungal to improper watering, so it is important to make sure you have found insects before treating.  Often one of the most common symptoms of the presence of insects in the lawn is the presence of birds feeding in affected areas.  An inspection of the thatch and soil in affected areas should be done.  Look for caterpillars ranging in size from 1/4” to1”.  If the presence of small caterpillars that are brown to grey with rows of dark spots along their back are present, you have sod web worms.  If you pull the affected grass and it break off at the soil and there is a presence of a sawdust like material then you have billbugs.  We are able to treat both types of insects, however if you wish to treat them yourself take a sample of the damaged grass or the insect itself to a nursery to obtain the proper type of insecticide.



I HAVE TRAILS RUNNING THROUGH MY LAWN?


The most common cause of trails running through your lawn is vols.  Vols are a burrowing rodent that resemble a common field mouse with a longer nose.  Trails are formed as the rodent burrows through the grass feeding on the stems.  You will notice trails of dead grass as a result.  There are specialized traps made to exterminate these pests.  Caution should be used if you have dogs in the placement of the traps, because the traps do contain a poison. 


HOW DO I GET RID OF CRABGRASS?


Crabgrass is a common problem in Colorado.  It appears as clusters of dense broad leaf grass.  Often other types of weed grasses are mistakenly identified as crabgrass and may require different treatment to alleviate.  Because crabgrass is a annual it dyes off with early frosts in November and December.  We recommend the use of pre-emergents in early March to late April to destroy the crabgrass seeds that will germinate.  If it is summer and the sight of the crabgrass is unbearable to you, you can dig out the clumps of grass and re-sod the areas.   We still recommend using a pre-emergent the following spring, because crabgrass seeds will still be present.




DO I HAVE SPIDER MITES?


The most common symptom of spider mites is severely bleached grass that appears when the grass is stressed due to lack of water (often occurring on the southern facing areas INCLUDING GRASS, JUNIPERS AND SOME PINES).  Therefore we most commonly see severe damage occur on lawns with southern exposure.  Two of the primary types of spider mites in Colorado that damage the grass are the Banks spider mite and the clover mite.  Under drought conditions Spider mites will flourish and can quickly destroy large areas of a lawn.  Mites can often be extremely difficult to see because they are about the size of the head of a pin.  It is important to quickly increase water in affected areas and treat with a miticide.  You will most often  see damage in full sun areas and if the lawn is left dry for an extended period of time the mites can quickly take over.  Areas affected will have to be re-seeded or re-sodded.



WHY IS MY GRASS LUMPY?


Often mature lawns will become lumpy and can become a nescience when mowing or fertilizing.  Many often mistake the lumps as a negative symptom.  However, the lumps are caused by earthworm activity below the surface and are a sign of a healthy soil.  Earthworms help to break down thatch and to aerate compacted soils.  Very little can be done to remedy this problem.  We recommend aeration twice a year and for further action one can roll the lawn with a sod roller.  In addition you can top dress the lawn with compost in spring and fall.

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303-255-7372

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